31 Jan Riding on the eastern branch of the Andes in Colombia – Cundinamarca, Boyacá & Santander

By. Alejandro Pinto

The Colombian Andes is a land of majestic mountains and breathtaking vistas. While pedaling throughout this region one could only imagine that these mountains were made to enjoy riding on a bicycle. Incredible ascents with gratifying achievements, quaint little towns on the countryside with a local culture that maintain traditions that come all the way back from colonial times. In this trip our guest Lise and Jeffrey from Canadá, joined our tour leader Alejo Pinto on an epic bicycles ride!

Day 1. Zipaquirá

After breakfast and bike fitting we started our journey throught the mountains of Chia with great looks of the Bogotá savanna plateau, despite the morning showers we reach the little town of Tabio in time for a nice coffee and a morning cake and kept pedaling following the roads locally know as “legendary mountains” and finally we reached the town of Zipaquirá -hometown of the 2019 Tour de France winner Egan Bernal – after reach the town we had a nice lunch in a little plaza and visited the Salt Cathedral. Historical downtown of Zipaquira is loaded with old beautiful constructions, the cathedral, churches and plazas are very nice to walk.

Day 2. Ráquira, the town of ceramics

Ráquira is one of the most striking villages in Boyacá due to its pottery and ceramics production, and to its architecture and handicrafts as well. Ever since the beginning Ráquira was well-known for their high quality pottery and ceramics. For this reason, it is also known as “Boyacá’s ceramics’ town”. We will start our morning near the Fuquene lagoon, climbs and ascents trought the mountains with spectacular views of hidden valleys and green rolling hills! On the way to Raquira we found a family, preparing theclay material to start their pottery, was really nice just to make the stop and see how the locals do all “handmade” after lunch in the main plaza of the town, we visited colorful workshops, take a look of the handicrafts and souvenirs. Some km more of cycling at the afternoon to reach our hotel amidst the mountains!

Day 3. Cycling on the way to Villa de Leyva

an unexpected dry scenery in the Andes! our morning started with pure adventure pedaling through the mountains, until we reached Candelaria Monastery an XVII construction in the middle of…nowhere! And eventually the withches yard area on the semi dry desert of la Candelaria, from there the landscape changes radically and few minutes later we were pedaling on a mountain desert, just you, your bicycle and the mountains around! With 360 views. Once on the ridge the valley where Villa de Leyva is located. After lunch we walked around the town a nice capuchino and a local dessert were part of the afternoon. We explored the charming cobblestone streets of Villa de Leyva.

Day 4.  Vineyards

An easy spin morning around the town of villa de Leyva  to  re charge the batteries and at the end of the ride we reached the local vineyards. In Colombia It’s odd to find vineyards this is a land of Chicha and Aguardiente (local licohors) but Villa de Leyva is one of the very few localities that produce wine in Colombia. The favorable weather conditions, sunny days, and the clay-based substrate gives this place the possibility to do this type of agricultural activity. While visiting a local vineyard we learned about the wine-making process and have a taste of their production, our picnic lunch in the vineyards loaded with local cheese and fruits – also enough good wine –   was more than perfect. Afternoon was for relaxing at the hotel amenities and afternoon to enjoy one of the local beers.

Day 5. Moniquirá, Cacique Susa’s hometown

After some days of acclimatization on our bikes, we leave behind Villa de Leyva to begin an uphill journey to Santa Sofía amidst the mountains, the ride was very enjoyable using the secondary roads with no cars at all! once in the little town, we had time for a coffee and visit the local bakery stores to try nice cookies with guaba paste. We kept pedaling uphill till we reach the final downhill portion on the way to Moniquirá, our final destination for this day.  The morning was fresh, all the time with good views of the mountains and the local people (campesinos) on their daily dutties. Once we arrived in Moniquirá and install ourselves in our hotel we enjoyed the pool and sauna for relaxing!

Day 6. Mountains and waterfalls

The tangerines harvest time is around here! This ride was really enjoyable passing by little town, getting local fruits all over and the nice warm weather was just perfect. The beautiful rural landscape of the Santander mountains is such a good sample of the Colombia countryside. On the way a big waterfall beside the road gave us a break and a short fresh until finally we reached the area of Guadalupe, another colonial charming town with a beautiful central plaza which preserve the colonial architecture. After this, is time to go to our hotel, have a lunch and fresh up. At the afternoon we enjoyed the amenities at the hotel.

Day 7. A challenging ride on the way to Barichara

Early morning, orange juice and coffee to start! After our breakfast we drove for not too long until we start our pedaling session, as usual in the mountains, far from the cars! We started our ride on a gravel road through a canyon crossing bridges, creeks, forest and with spectacular views not only of the canyon but also of high serranias and mountains. We finished our amazing bicycles ride in Barichara, another small beautiful town, which preserve the colonial architecture and cobblestone streets. At the afternoon we had time to walk around and talk about the town and their main attractions and for sure, enjoyed the amenities in our beautiful hotel.

Day 8. Cycling and hiking

The landscape of the Colombian Andes throughout the state of Santander is characterized by the yellow and red tones of the clay-based hills on this predominantly dry enclave. For this day we did an easy spin finishing in the extremely charming town of Guane and in the way back we did a hike on the cobblestone Guane´s path (Guanes were the indigenous group who inhabits this area) at the afternoon we had time to photograph and walk the colonial town, the wooden balconies and their people.  

Day 9. Chicamocha canyon

The largest canyon in Colombia, Chicamocha which means in guane language: full moon night´s mountain silver river. We reached the canyon after a drive on a windy road into the mountains with incredible views, we made the stop on the national park where enjoyed a cable car tour above the canyon and watch its magnificent formation and slopes. This is a steep sided canyon carved by the Chicamocha River between Boyacá and Santander departments. With a maximum depth of 2000 meters (6,600 ft), an area of 108,000 hectares (270,000 acres) and a length of 227 kilometers (141 mi), the canyon is the second-largest worldwide. The cable car took us to the other side of the canyon on Mesa de los Santos (6.7km in straight line) here we had time for a short ride at the afternoon, we visited the local campesinos market a had a great time!

Day 10. Riding into the canyon

A dry and magnificent mountain is surrounding us in this place! We use the bycicles to ride on the “flat top” mesa de los Santos area, with magnificent views of the canyon and mountains around. At mid morning we reached a waterfall into the mountain surrounded by nature and kept pedaling on the way to a really nice coffee farm. A great lunch with tinto (black coffee) and a walk around the coffee crops to understand better their history and process.  We finished on our hotel swimming pool and sauna to relax a bit and talk about the last days experience in Colombia.